Hmmm… Subaru’s look best when they have a practical ride height. This seems too low to me… although maybe that’s just the extra 30mm of rubber shaving off my paint. Easton fender roller may have to rescue me again…
Andrew and I auto-x again this weekend…
Naw man… sky high ride heights are for Dodge Rams.
Everything looks great in “sparks will fly when you gutter drop stance”.
…even Subarus.
So, the most pertinent question for a tarmac setup Subaru… How much front camber did ya get?
I set it to 3 degrees, but after one event, I’m upping it to 3.5. I also jacked the car about 0.5″.
Pretty amazing how it is a completely different car to drive versus the pink springs. I don’t think the back end stepped out once in 12 runs… which is boring, but proves that I’m not slow because I’m a hoon. I’m just slow.
It does tuck the nose nicely and rotate under power on corner exit… if you remember to keep your right foot on the floor everywhere and slow the car down with the left foot. Turbo’s still suck.
I never bothered to measure caster… I’m still running the spacer’ed Spec C arms. Pretty tempted to jack the camber all the way to 5, but I doubt the tires will survive the trek to and from the track, even if they do twice as good at speed.
That’s one of the few the plusses of camber plates and mac strut!
You can set the plates to minimum camber, adjust to zero toe for a street setting then drive to event where you jack up car & slam the plates to max camber and end up with an autox amount of toe out.
Then at the end of the day (since you’re not having to swap tires) you can go back to your street camber (and toe) setting & drive off…
Rear camber is zero-ish?
That is a good thing about front mounted steering. I feel too lazy for that even… although the R1R’s do seem quite fragile. Probably worth measuring what toe does exactly.
Rear camber is 2.25 degrees, with no adjustment available except for the play in the bolts, which I maximized. Toe in back is 2mm out.
I added camber bolts in the rear on my WRX to get rid of some of the negative camber from the ride height change.
I ran -3.5° camber, zero toe in the front. and somewhere between -0.5° to -1° camber and zero toe in the rear. (Being camber bolts I didn’t want them at a slippable mid-way setting, so I installed them at the max outward adjustment on the upper hole).
If you find the rear is too planted it’s something you could look at, they’re plentiful too since lots of applications also use 14mm strut bolts.
FWIW… I found my camber plates work nicely for at the track changes like you suggested. 1.5 degrees camber and 0 toe in is our street setting. Sliding the plates in to 3.25 degrees works out to about 3mm toe out, which I guess is still a relatively conservative number for the track… I may end up going a bit further…